thing about champagne,” you say, unfoiling the cork, unwinding its wire restraint, “is that it is the ultimate associative object. Every time you open a bottle of champagne, it’s a celebration, so there’s no better way of starting a celebration than opening a bottle of champagne. Every time you sip it, you’re sipping from all those other celebrations. The joy accumulates over time.” You pop the cork. The bubbles rise. I feel some of the spray on my skin. You pour. “But why?” I ask as you hand me my glass. You raise yours and ask, “Why not? What better way to start the day?” We drink a toast to that.